Che cazzo guarda!?” – Cruising through Toscana

The other side of the Apennines, at night

Last Monday was a very mem­or­able day. What an absurdly long, moun­tain­ous, sur­pris­ing, grue­some day, so exhaust­ing that my quadri­ceps halved their length out of ten­sion, my brakes boiled eggs out of heat, my water bottles expan­ded out of plead­ing for water, my sweat glands digi-evolved into foun­tains, and I’m going to stop with the […]

Ascent and Fuga

High atop Genova there is a grand statue of the vir­gin Mary, nigh as tall as the Christ of Świebodzin, loom­ing over the faraway sea … nearly as high we had to climb to our Genovese couch­surfer, but, all of a sud­den, without any effort: we are still sus­pi­cious wheth­er it’s just been some­thing we’ve […]